Salmi de Perdrix

Salmi de perdrix

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City/Region: England | France

Time Period: 1861

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This dish was part of the menu when a group of prominent scientists and businessmen dined inside the model of an iguanodon in London’s Crystal Palace in 1853. Extravagant, you say? That was the name of the game with 8 courses that included some of Victorian England’s most popular dishes. On top of that, the guest of honor was none other than Professor Richard Owen, the man who coined the term “dinosaur”.

Salmi de perdrix will take some time and effort to prepare, but it is so worth it. The flavors are complex and delicious and it tastes of luxury. Step back into Victorian England with this dish. No iguanodon required.

“Ingredients.—3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean ham, 1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole peppers, ¾ pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lump of sugar.

Mode.—After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them rather underdone…as they should not be browned; cut them into…wings, legs and breasts; put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by until the gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put them, with the carrots sliced, the shallots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper, into a stewpan; fry them lightly in butter, pour in the stock, add the bones and trimmings from the partridges, and simmer for ¼ hour. Strain the gravy…put it to the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass of sherry or Madeira and a small lump of sugar; let all gradually warm through by the side of the fire, and when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with croutons. ”

— Beeton's Book of Household Management by Isabella Beeton, 1861

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Ingredients:

• 2 small birds, I used game hens
• 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter
• 3 carrots, diced
• 2 to 3 shallots, minced
• 1 large ham steak, diced
• 3 to 4 mushrooms, sliced
• A bundle of savory herbs, such as sage, rosemary, and thyme (parsley too if you're feeling musical)
• 2 whole cloves
• 6 peppercorns
• 1 3/4 cups (415 ml) beef stock
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) sherry
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar
• A few slices of white bread, cut into any shape, for croutons
• Butter or oil, for croutons

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C).
2. Let the birds come to room temperature, then salt and pepper them inside and out. Truss them with some cooking twine and roast them in a pan for about 20 minutes. You want to cook them about ¾ of the way done, so the time will vary depending on the type of bird and their weight.
3. Let the birds sit for 5 minutes, then carve them, removing the wings, legs, and breasts. Arrange these in a single layer in another pan and cover to keep warm.
4. Chop the remainder of the birds (the bones and trimmings) into small pieces to use in the sauce later.
5. Melt the 2 tablespoons of butter in a large saucepan over medium heat, then add the carrots and shallots and cook for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, herbs, cloves, peppercorns, and ham and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the stock and the bones and trimmings and simmer for at least 30 minutes.
6. Once it’s slightly thickened, pour it through a strainer and let it cool for a few minutes, then skim off as much of the fat as you can.
7. Pour the sauce over the prepared wings, legs, and breasts, then add the sherry and sprinkle in the sugar.
8. Set over low heat and bring to a simmer. Don’t rush this step: use low heat or you will overcook the fowl. After it comes to a simmer, cook for just a few minutes.
9. When the fowl is almost done cooking, make the croutons by melting a bit of butter or oil in a pan, then frying the bread for a few moments on each side until golden brown.
10. To plate, place a crouton on a plate and top with a few pieces of the bird, then drizzle some of the sauce over it, and serve it forth.

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