Mock Banana Sandwich

Mock banana cream on whole grain National Loaf

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City/Region: United Kingdom

Time Period: 1944

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British rationing lasted from 1940 all the way to 1954, and they had to completely do without foods like bananas for years. The National Loaf began to be distributed in 1941. Made of 85% wholemeal flour enriched with vitamins B and C, it was nutritious, but dense, gummy, and went stale very quickly. 

My National Loaf, based on the Imperial War Museum’s version, is dense, but I like the complex flavors from the whole grains. The mock banana cream has a texture that’s really close to mashed bananas, though the taste is an interesting mixture of parsnip and banana. Not bad, but not quite banana.

“Mock Banana Cream
Here is a more economical banana cream recipe. Prepare and boil 1lb. parsnips until soft. Add 2 ozs margarine, 1 level tablespoonful sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls banana flavouring and beat until creamy. This must be used quickly, but half the quantity can be made if desired.”

— Daily Record, Glasgow, May 27, 1944

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Ingredients:

Mock Banana Cream

• 1 lb (450 g) parsnips
• 4 tablespoons (60 g) margarine
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 2 teaspoons banana flavoring, or more to taste

The National Loaf

• 2 1/2 cups (300 g) wholemeal wheat flour
• 1/2 cup (35 g) wheat germ
• 1/2 cup (50 g) oat flour
• 1/2 cup (60 g) barley flour
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
• 1 1/4 cups (300 ml) water
• 1 tablespoon treacle or honey

Instructions:

1. For the mock banana cream: Peel the parsnips and chop them. The size isn’t really important here, it’s just to help them cook faster.
2. Put the parsnips in a pot, cover them with water, and boil them for about 10 minutes, or until they’re quite soft. You may need more or less time depending on the size of your parsnip pieces.
3. Drain the parsnips, put them in a large bowl, and mash them well. They don’t need to be completely smooth because we're going to mash them some more in the next step.
4. Add the margarine, sugar, and banana flavoring and mash again until combined. You can also use electric beaters to get the banana cream as smooth as possible.
5. For the National Loaf: Whisk the flours and wheat germ together. Whisk in the salt, then whisk in the yeast. Add the water and treacle and mix until it forms a dough.
6. Knead by hand for 15 to 20 minutes or for about 10 minutes in a stand mixer, or until you have a nice smooth dough.
7. Set the dough in a greased bowl, cover, and let it rise for about 2 hours or until it’s doubled in size.
8. After the dough has risen, turn it out and gently press it into a rectangle about 8 inches (20 cm) by 15 inches (38 cm). With the shorter side facing you, roll the dough up into a log that is 8 inches long. Place the dough in a greased loaf pan, cover, and let it rise for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the dough reaches the top of the pan.
9. While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
10. After the dough has risen, bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until the internal temperature has reached at least 195°F (90°C). Let it cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.
11. To assemble: For extra authenticity, let the National Loaf sit out for a day to get a little stale before slicing and making sandwiches.
12. Slice the National Loaf thinly, about 1/4 inch (scant 1 cm). Spread some butter on if you wish, but during rationing, it’s unlikely someone would use their precious butter allotment on a mock banana sandwich. Add as much of the mock banana cream as you like and spread it evenly. Top with another thin slice of the National Loaf, and serve it forth.

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