Gruel

19th century gruel made with oats, butter, sugar, brandy, and nutmeg

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City/Region: England

Time Period: 1804

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When you think of gruel, you probably think of Oliver Twist, the terrible conditions of orphanages or workhouses, and the sickly. Gruel certainly has had its place in the workhouse and the sickbed, but some versions of it can be quite fancy and delicious.

This recipe is one of those: an oatmeal porridge with the addition of butter, sugar, brandy, and nutmeg. The nutmeg is the first thing you taste, followed by the dark flavor from the brandy. There’s no burn at all, so at least most of the alcohol cooks off and you’re just left with the wonderful brandy flavor. I’d ask for more, too, if this was what they were serving.

“Oatmeal Pottage, or Gruel
Mix together three table spoonfuls of oatmeal, a very little salt, and a quart of water; put it over a fire, and let it boil gently for half an hour. Then skim and strain it, add to it an ounce of fresh butter, some loaf sugar, a little brandy, and grated nutmeg; or, instead of these ingredients, pepper, salt, and fresh butter; then boil it again five minutes, mix it till very smooth, and let it be of a moderate consistence.”

— The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined by John Mollard, 1804

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Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons Scottish or steel cut oatmeal
• A pinch of salt
• 1 quart (1 L) water
• 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar, or to taste
• 2 tablespoons brandy, or to taste
• 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg, or to taste

Instructions:

1. In a pot, add the oatmeal and salt to the water. Set it over medium heat and bring it to a gentle boil.
2. Boil for 30 minutes, then skim off the scum that forms on top.
3. Stir in the butter, sugar, brandy, and nutmeg until the butter is melted.
4. Cook for an additional 5 minutes or until it’s as thick as you like it, then serve it forth.

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