Waffles

Rich yeasted waffles with a butter and wine sauce

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City/Region: England

Time Period: 1714

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This recipe, from 1714, comes from just a few years before the English started using the word “waffle” and calls this dish “Dutch-Wafers” instead. The origins of waffles go back to around the 9th or 10th century, when they started using patterned irons to make communion wafers, and for a long time, waffles were very thin and flat. Around the late 16th century, we start seeing the familiar grid-shaped irons with deeper pockets, which allowed for lighter, fluffier waffles, like these.

These waffles are very rich, with a texture that is similar to waffles today, but the flavors are very unique. You get a lot of nutmeg from the waffles and just a hint of rose, and the sauce is very buttery and the sack is not overpowering at all. I really like them, and if you make them, I highly recommend that you use an electric waffle maker. I used one that you use over an open flame, and the batter is so buttery that some would leak out and start little fires. Waffle making is an involved process without little fires, so save yourself the trouble.

“The right Dutch-Wafer
TAKE four eggs, and beat them very well, then take a good spoonful of fine Sugar, one Nutmeg grated, a pint of Cream, and a pound of Flower, a pound of Butter melted, two or three spoonfuls of Rose-water, and two good spoonfuls of Yeast; mix all well together, and bake them in your Wafer-tongs on the Fire.
For the Sauce, take grated Cinnamon, Sack, and melted Butter, sweeten’d to your Taste.”

— A Collection of Above Three Hundred Recipes in Cookery, Physic and Surgery, 1714

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Ingredients:

Waffles

• 1 1/2 teaspoons (5 g) dried yeast
• 2 teaspoons (4 g) sugar
• 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
• Scant 2 cups (225 g) flour
• 2 eggs, at room temperature
• 1 cup (235 ml) cream, at room temperature
• 1 cup (225 g) salted butter*, melted
• 1 teaspoon (5 ml) rose water

Wine and Butter Sauce

• 1/2 cup (113 g) butter, melted
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) sack**

*If using unsalted butter, add a pinch of salt

**See notes below.

Instructions:

1. For the waffles: Whisk together the yeast, sugar, nutmeg, and flour.
2. Beat the eggs well, then whisk in the cream. Add the melted butter and rose water and mix to combine.
3. Add the dry ingredients to the wet and mix until just combined (some lumps are fine). Cover and leave it to rise for at least an hour. It will get a little bubbly or puffy.
4. Since there’s so much butter in the batter, there’s no need to grease your waffle maker. Otherwise, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your waffle maker. You can keep finished waffles hot in a warm oven (around 200°F (95°C)) while you make the rest.
5. For the sauce: Whisk together the butter, cinnamon, sugar, and sack until the sugar is dissolved. You could make this while the waffle batter rises, just keep it warm so the butter stays melted.
6. Serve the waffles forth with the warm sauce.

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Notes

• You might not be able to find anything called “sack”, which referred to a somewhat sweet wine. You can use a lighter dessert wine like a dry riesling, sherry, or white port (it’s amazing).

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