Victoria Sandwich

Victoria Sandwich: Homemade strawberry jam between layers of sponge cake

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City/Region: England

Time Period: 1861

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Tea was brought to England in the (probably) 1650s, but it wasn’t until about 200 years later that Anna Russell, seventh Duchess of Bedford is credited with establishing the first afternoon tea. For the elite, there was usually nothing to eat between a light lunch and dinner at 8:00 PM, and the Duchess was understandably hungry. She began taking a fourth meal between 4:00 and 5:00, and by the 1870s, it was all the rage for fashionable ladies to host afternoon tea, which would include cakes like this one.

I was very skeptical at first, as this recipe incorporates the flour very early on and requires a lot of mixing, but it turned out much lighter than I imagined (though still denser than a modern sponge). The flavor is fantastic with a mysterious vanilla quality to it even though there isn’t any vanilla in it. Make the homemade jam if you can; it’s so good. If you can’t find any good berries or you just don’t have the time, store bought jam works just fine.

“Ingredients
4 eggs;
their weight in pounded sugar, butter, and flour;
1/4 saltspoonful of salt,
a layer of any kind of jam or marmalade.
Mode - Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and pounded sugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been well beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool, spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over it the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and then cut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in crossbars on a glass dish, and serve.”

— Beeton’s Book of Household Management by Isabella Beeton, 1861

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Ingredients:

Cake

• 4 eggs, at room temperature
• 1 cup, plus 2 tablespoons (225 g) castor sugar
• 2 sticks (225 g) softened butter
• Scant 2 cups (225 g) flour
• A pinch of salt
• A small amount of baking powder*, optional

Strawberry Jam

• 1 lb (450 g) fresh strawberries, hulled
• 1 1/2 cups (300 g) jam sugar*
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

*See notes below.

Instructions:

1. For the jam: Make the jam a day ahead to give it time to set. Chop the strawberries into small pieces, then mix them with the sugar and lemon juice in a medium pot. Set the pot over medium heat and stir until the sugar is fully dissolved. Raise the heat slightly and bring it to a boil, mashing the berries as they soften. Simmer for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the jam reaches 220°F (105°C), stirring frequently to prevent scorching.
2. Remove the pot from the heat and continue to stir for 1 minute. Pour the jam into a jar or bowl and put it in the fridge to cool completely, preferably overnight.
3. For the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter or line a large rectangular pan with parchment paper.
4. In a large bowl, beat the butter until it’s nice and fluffy, then add the sugar and cream them together.
5. In a separate bowl, whisk the salt into the flour, and if you want to add a bit of baking powder, you can do so now.
6. Stir the flour mixture into the butter mixture until it’s somewhat incorporated.
7. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs until they’re nice and frothy. Mix them into the butter and flour mixture until thoroughly combined.
8. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
9. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn it out onto a wire rack and let it cool completely.
10. To assemble: Cut the cake into finger sandwich sized slices. Slice each finger into two layers. Spread the cooled jam on one layer, place the other on top, and sprinkle with a bit of powdered sugar. Brew a pot of your favorite tea, and serve them forth.

Notes

• Jam sugar has some pectin added in, and it’s what Isabella Beeton uses in her jam recipes. If you can’t find it, you can use regular sugar, but the jam won’t be as thick, and you want a nice firm jam for this recipe.
• I didn’t use baking powder because I wanted to see how the original recipe turned out, but many other recipes for Victoria sandwich used it. Feel free to use a bit if you want some insurance that your cake will rise.

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