Pompeiian Pizza

Pizza in the style of a recently uncovered fresco in Pompeii with moretum, a Roman garlic-herb-cheese spread

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City/Region: Pompeii

Time Period: c. 79 A.D.

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Archaeologists recently uncovered a fresco in Region IX of Pompeii that includes something that looks much like a pizza. It’s hard to tell what exactly is on the “pizza”, but one thing’s for sure: it definitely wouldn’t have tomatoes on it since they wouldn’t make an appearance in Europe for another 1500 years. It’s really down to our best guesses and what you like when it comes to toppings, but I’m including moretum, which is a Roman garlic-herb-cheese spread that goes wonderfully with the bread, and I recommend something sweet like pomegranate seeds or dates.

“Digging in the Earth,
He pulls up four heads of garlic;
Then he desires the parsley’s graceful foliage
And the stiffness-causing rue, and trembling on their slender thread, the coriander leaf,
And when he has collected these
He sits before the fire
And loudly asks His wench for the mortar.
The garlic bulbs he rinses and strips
Then throws into the hollow stone.
On these he sprinkles grains of salt,
And cheese is added
Then he introduces the herbs…
The reeking garlic with the pestle breaks,
Then everything he crushes all alike.
His hand in circles moves,
Until the ingredients lose their separate colors
And out of many colors comes one
Neither wholly green, nor shining white…
Then drops of Athena’s olive oil he adds
And pours a little of his sharp vinegar
And again works the mixture together.”

— Moretum by Virgil

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Ingredients:

Moretum

• 1 head of garlic (this can be pared way down for a more subtle garlic flavor or more garlic can be added to make a pungent spread)
• A large handful of parsley
• A large handful of cilantro
• A small handful of rue*, or celery leaf Do not eat rue if pregnant
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 10 ounces (280 g) white cheese, I used fresh sheep’s cheese, but use what you like
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Dough

• 1 cup (250 g) active sourdough starter
• 2 cups (475 ml) warm water
• 4 cups (500 g) whole wheat flour
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 2 tablespoons honey

*See notes below.

Instructions:

1. For the moretum: Peel and roughly chop the garlic and chop the herbs. Add the garlic to a mortar if you’re going for extra authenticity, but I quickly switched to using a food processor and suggest that you do the same.
2. Run the food processor until the garlic is chopped very fine, then add the salt, cheese, and herbs. Process until the mixture is all a uniform color (some flecks of herbs is okay), scraping down the sides as needed.
3. Add the olive oil and vinegar and process until smooth.
4. For the dough: In a large bowl, whisk the salt into the flour, then add the starter and water. Mix until slightly incorporated (I used my hands), then add the olive oil and honey and work it together for 2 to 3 minutes until everything is well combined, but we’re not going to be kneading this dough.
5. Spread a light layer of olive oil over the top of the dough and cover the bowl with a damp towel. Leave it to rise for about 4 hours, or up to overnight (put in the fridge for overnight). The time will depend on how active your starter is; let it do its thing until it's doubled in size.
6. Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) and place a pizza stone in it if you have one.
7. Without punching the dough down, gently turn it out onto a lightly oiled surface. Divide the dough into 4 pieces, then gently shape them into circles. Use your fingers to create a sort of trench about an inch from the edge of the circles, then spread a bit of olive oil in them.
8. If your transferring-round-dough-to-the-oven skills are a bit lacking (as mine are), put your dough circles onto parchment paper, slide it onto the pizza stone and let it cook for 2 minutes. The parchment should slide right out after that, then continue to cook for 8 more minutes.
9. To assemble: Let the bread cool for a few minutes, then spread the moretum on it. It’s very garlicky, so use as much or little as suits your taste. The toppings are up to you and what you think might be depicted in the fresco. I used white cheese, dates, pomegranate, and herbs. Top the pizza how you like, and serve it forth.

Notes

• Rue is a bitter herb that was used in a lot of historical recipes. It's mildly toxic and should only be consumed in very small amounts, if at all. Do not eat rue if you are pregnant!
• Link to rue: https://amzn.to/3yErUqH

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