Rose Water Pizza

A large, round loaf of buttery bread topped with rose water and sugar

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City/Region: Italy

Time Period: 1570

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To discuss the origins of pizza, one must define what pizza is, and herein lies the first hurdle. Is it just some flatbread with things on top? Does it need to be called “pizza”? Does it need to be recognizable as pizza to us today?

If the first, then ancient Greeks, Egyptians, and Indians had pizza. If the second, then it begins in 997 in Gaeta, Italy. If the third, then sometime in the 19th century.

This is not my definition of pizza, but it is delicious. It would have been served in the Papal Court in the 16th century and is topped with rose water and sugar. The butter makes it smell kind of like croissants, and the rose is nice and subtle. This recipe makes a LOT of dough, so I recommend cutting it in half unless you want a lot of bread.

“Per fare pizza sfogliata ad un’altro modo Cap CXXXI
Another way to prepare flakey pizza.
Chapter 131
Bring together three pounds of fine flour and two ounces of yeast starter, four ounces of breadcrumb that has soaked in warm water, and enough salt. When the dough is made let it rest, covered in a warm place to rise, as is done with bread. Then knead it again on the table for a half hour, adding in, little by little, two pounds of fresh butter. Knead until all of the butter has been worked into the dough and it has become soft, split the dough up into two or three pieces and with each make the pizza in a tourte pan which has fresh butter in it. Bake it in an oven with melted butter on top. Make several holes on top with the tip of a knife so it will not puff up too much. When it is nearly done, sprinkle with sugar and rosewater. This pastry should be baked slowly and serve it hot. ”

— Opera di Bartolomeo Scappi by Bartolomeo Scappi, 1570

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Ingredients:

• 6 tablespoons (60 g) breadcrumbs
• 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) warm water, divided
• 4 cups (480 g) bread flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1/4 cup (60 g) high yeast biga*, or 1 teaspoon yeast
• 1 pound (400 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 2 tablespoons melted butter
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon rose water

*See notes below.

Instructions:

1. Combine 1 cup (240 ml) of the warm water with the breadcrumbs and let them soak until they’ve absorbed most of the water.
2. Whisk the flour and salt together. Add the biga or yeast and the soaked breadcrumbs. Mix together to distribute.
3. Add the 1/2 cup (120 ml) warm water a little at a time while mixing. Only add enough water to make the dough come together. You may not need all of the water.
4. Turn the dough out and knead it until it starts to become smooth. Put it in a lightly greased bowl and cover it. Let it rise in a warm place until doubled in size. Depending on your biga or yeast, this could take 2 to 4 hours.
5. When the dough has doubled, punch it down and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Stretch it into a square or rectangle. Scatter some of the butter pieces on top, then fold the dough over to cover the butter and knead until the butter is fully incorporated. Repeat the process until all of the butter is incorporated. As you add more butter, the dough will become stickier. Add flour a couple of tablespoons at a time if it becomes unworkable, just enough to bring it back together. If you have a stand mixer, you can use it for this part (it will be much easier).
6. Once all of the butter is incorporated and the dough is silky smooth, divide it into 3 pieces. Cover and let it rest, preferably in the refrigerator, for 30 minutes.
7. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 10-inch cake pan. If you have a springform pan, it will make getting the pizza out easier.
8. After the dough has rested, roll each piece out to match the diameter of the pan. Layer the pieces in the pan on top of each other. Brush the top with the melted better. Using a sharp knife, poke holes all over the top to keep it from puffing up too much.
9. Set the pan on a lined baking sheet and bake for 1 hour 15 minutes.
10. After 1 hour 15 minutes, quickly brush the rose water on top of the pizza and sprinkle the sugar on it. Bake for another 15 minutes, or until it’s baked all the way through.
11. Let it cool before cutting, then serve it forth.

Notes

• A biga is an Italian bread starter made of yeast, water, and flour that usually ferments for several hours.

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