Pompkin Pie

The first custard-style pumpkin pie in a rich crust

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City/Region: United States of America

Time Period: 1796

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Before European crops took hold in America, pumpkins were a staple food for many. They were cooked into pottages, soups, puddings, chips, ale, and pies. Even after apples and pears were available, they remained so popular in New England, that a “pompkin” was someone from the Boston area, which itself was referred to as Pumpkinshire by some.

This recipe is the first for a custard-style pumpkin pie that most resembles the modern version. It doesn’t use any granulated sugar, only molasses, so it’s less sweet than modern pies, but in a very pleasant way that lets the spices really shine. The filling is very liquidy before you bake it and sets up to a firm pudding-like texture that is so deliciously smooth. This will definitely be on my holiday table this year!

“Pompkin Pie No. 2
One quart of milk, 1 pint pompkin, 4 eggs, molasses, allspice and ginger in a crust, bake 1 hour.

Puff Pastes for Tarts No. 3
To any quantity of flour, rub in three fourths of its weight of butter, (twelve eggs to a peck) rub in one third or half, and roll in the rest. ”

— American Cookery by Amelia Simmons, 1796

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Ingredients:

Crust

• 1 pound (450 g) flour
• 3/4 pound (340 g) butter
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten

Filling

• 2 cups (450 g) pumpkin puree, or 1 sugar pumpkin
• 4 eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/2 cup (190 g) molasses, not sulfured or blackstrap
• 1 quart (1 L) whole milk
• 1 1/2 teaspoons allspice
• 2 teaspoons ginger

Instructions:

1. For the crust: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. Rub the butter into the flour mixture until you get a breadcrumb consistency, then add in the egg and mix it in until it comes together.
3. Roll out the dough and line either one deep dish pie pan or two regular pie pans. Prick the bottom of the crust several times with a fork and crimp the edges of the dough.
4. Line the crust with some foil and add in pie weights or dried beans, then bake for 15 minutes. Take it out and remove the weights, then bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the crust is fully baked. Let the crust cool.
5. For the filling: If you’re using canned pumpkin puree, skip to Step 9. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
6. Cut the sugar pumpkin in half and scoop out the insides. Place the pumpkin halves cut side down on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 1 hour.
7. As soon as it’s done, take it out and remove the skin while it’s still hot (a fork and knife work well). It should come off very easily in strips.
8. Let the pumpkin cool a bit before mashing it up as smooth as you can. If you want an extra-smooth puree, pass it through a strainer.
9. In a mixing bowl, combine the pumpkin, eggs, molasses, and a small amount of the milk. Whisk until it starts to come together, then add the allspice, ginger, and the rest of the milk. Whisk until well combined. The mixture will be quite liquidy.
10. Place the pie pan on a baking sheet to catch any drips or spills. Pour the filling into the baked crust. Since it’s so liquidy, I filled mine about 3/4 full, put it in the oven, then ladled the rest of the filling in so I wouldn’t make a huge mess when I moved it.
11. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 75 to 80 minutes or until there is just a slight wobble in the middle of the pie.
12. Turn off the oven, but leave the pie in to cool with the door slightly ajar (you can use a wooden spoon to prop it open).
13. Let cool completely before slicing, then serve it forth. This actually tastes even better the next day!

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