Mock Apple Pie

Mashed potato crust with a cracker, tartaric acid, and nutmeg filling that tastes pretty close to apple pie

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City/Region: United States of America

Time Period: 1863

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During times of war, publications will sprout up that contain recipes and other household instructions to make the limited amount of ingredients and the absence of luxuries go further. The source for the recipes I’m using here come from such a book, which compiled recipes from Southern newspapers and other sources and was published in the middle of the Civil War.

This pie contains no apples, but it sure does taste like it (though the texture is more like a pumpkin pie). Some kind of magic happens with the tartaric acid, and the result is really impressive for being made of hardtack (clack clack). The crust uses potatoes to make the small amount of flour go further, but it all comes together for a surprisingly tasty pie.

“Apple Pie Without Apples.
- To one small bowl of crackers, that have been soaked until no hard parts remain, add one teaspoonful of tartaric acid, sweeten to your taste, add some butter, and a very little nutmeg.

Potato Crust.
- Boil six good-sized mealy potatoes, and mash them fine, add salt, a spoonful of butter, and two of water, while they are hot, then work in flour enough for making a paste to roll out…”

— Confederate Receipt Book. A Compilation of Over One Hundred Receipts. Adapted to the Times, 1863

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Ingredients:

Filling

• Plain crackers*, enough to make 2 cups broken into small pieces, I used hardtack (clack clack)
• 1 teaspoon tartaric acid
• 1 cup (200 g) brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
• 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter

Crust

• 6 medium russet potatoes
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1 tablespoon (14 g) butter
• 2 tablespoons (29 g) water
• 1 cup (120 g) flour

*The recipe isn’t specific what kind of crackers. Something like pilot bread or club crackers would also work.

Instructions:

1. For the filling: Break the crackers into small pieces, enough to make 2 cups, then cover them with water until they soften. If you use hardtack (clack clack) like I did, this could take a couple of hours. If you use something like a club cracker, it’ll take just a few seconds.
2. Meanwhile, whisk together the tartaric acid, brown sugar, and nutmeg. Mix in the butter until it’s all incorporated.
3. Drain the crackers and mash them well. Stir in the brown sugar mixture.
4. For the crust: Peel the potatoes and cut them into quarters. Place them in a large pot and cover them with water. Bring the pot to a boil and boil gently for about 20 minutes, or until they’re very soft.
5. Drain the potatoes, return them to the pot, and mash them as smooth as you can.
6. While the potatoes are still hot, mix in the salt, butter, and water.
7. Add the flour a little at a time until it forms a dough. I wasn’t able to get a consistency that could be rolled out like the historical recipe says, so let me know if you are able to.
8. If your dough is unrollable like mine, smush it into a 9-inch (22 cm) pie pan so that it covers the bottom and sides evenly. Crimp the edges of the crust.
9. To assemble: Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C).
10. Pour the filling into the crust and level out the top.
11. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F (175°C) and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes. I took mine out when it started to crack on top. Let the pie cool completely.
12. Slice and serve it forth.

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