Kishkiyya

A slightly sour lamb stew with herbs, chickpeas, and fat, eaten as a hangover cure in 10th century Baghdad

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City/Region: Baghdad

Time Period: 10th Century

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Where there are hangovers, there are hangover cures. Throughout history they’ve varied from having a good wash, drinking lemonade while drinking alcohol, and the dubious prairie oyster. This stew is kind of like 10th century Baghdad’s version of my favorite hangover food: a greasy burger and fries. 

Fatty lamb is stewed with kishka (a dried yogurt-like dairy product), verjuice, chickpeas, herbs, and greens, along with some olive oil just to make sure there’s enough grease involved. It doesn’t look all that pretty, but it tastes good. It’s complex and layered, with each flavor following the last, and the variety of textures is wonderful.

“Wash 3 ratls meat and put it in a pot. Add ½ ratl chopped onion, ¼ ratl fresh herbs, a handful of chickpeas, 1 piece galangal, and ¼ ratl olive oil. Pour water to submerge the ingredients in the pot. Let the pot cook until meat is almost done. Add any of the seasonal green vegetables and a little chard. When everything in the pot is cooked, add 3 pieces of sour kishk, and ½ ratl kishk of Albu-Sahar, Mawsili, or Bahaki. Pound them into fine powder and dissolve them in 1 ratl (2 cups) ma’hisrim (juice of unripe sour grapes).
When kishk is done, add 2 dirhams (6 grams) cumin and an equal amount of cassia. Add a handful of finely chopped onion. Do not stir the pot. When the onion cooks and falls apart, add to the pot 2 danaqs (1 gram) cloves and a similar amount of spikenard.
Stop fueling the fire, let the pot simmer and rest on the remaining heat then take it down, God willing.”

— Kitāb al-Tabīkh by ibn Sayyār al-Warrāq, 10th Century, translation from Annals of the Caliph’s Kitchen by Nawal Nasrallah

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Ingredients:

• 3 lbs (1 to 1 1/2 kg) lamb or other meat with the bone, cut into stew meat sized chunks
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 1/4 lb fresh herbs*, chopped fine
• 1/2 cup (80 g) dried chickpeas
• 2 inch piece of fresh galangal**, peeled and minced
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 head green chard, chopped fine
• Same amount as chard of another leafy green, like spinach
• 1 cup kishk**
• 2 cups (475 ml) verjuice**
• 1/4 cup diced onion
• 1 tsp cumin
• 1 1/2 teaspoons cassia powder or cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon cloves
• 1 teaspoon spikenard**

*Use whatever you like here. I used a mixture of cilantro, thyme, parsley, basil, and oregano.

**See notes below.

Instructions:

1. Place the meat, sliced onion (save the diced onion for later), herbs, chickpeas, galangal, and olive oil in a large pot. Add enough water to cover the ingredients and stir it all together.
2. Bring the pot to a simmer over medium heat, then put the lid on and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the meat is nice and tender.
3. When the meat is ready, add the chard and other greens. Stir and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes.
4. While the greens cook, whisk the kishk into the verjuice and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. It should fully dissolve and thicken.
5. Stir the kishk mixture into the stew and cook for another 20 minutes.
6. Stir in the diced onion, cumin, and cassia. Cook for 10 minutes.
7. Stir in the cloves and spikenard. Turn the heat down to its lowest setting and cook for about 1 hour.
8. Serve the stew forth, especially if you have a hangover.

Notes

• Galangal is related to ginger, but has a sharp citrusy, piney flavor. It's used in a lot of Southeastern Asian cuisines like Thai and Vietnamese, and in historical recipes like this one. You can find it in Asian grocery stores, and dried online. If using dried galangal, use 2 teaspoons ground.

• Kishk (or kashk) is primarily yogurt or similar fermented dairy products that are dried and powdered.

• Verjuice is made from unripened grapes and has a vinegary acidic-ness mixed with some sweetness. If you can't find it, try using a mixture of equal parts grape juice and red wine vinegar.

• Spikenard is an herb that has a unique sweet, earthy muskiness. The oil form is more common, but is used in perfumes and is not for use in food. Get the dried root for use in recipes.

• Dried galangal - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2WL7BZ

• Kishk (kashk) - I don't have the exact link for the kishk I used in the video, but a Middle Eastern market is a good place to look. If you find one that you like, feel free to post a link to it in the comments below!

• Verjuice - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6TC8N6

• Spikenard - https://mountainroseherbs.com/spikenard-root

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